Devon Cycling Adventure: Day IV

I’ve gotten lovely and encouraging comments on the Crowdfunder page but can’t access emails to write everyone who has contributed; I wanted you all to know that I see them, and thank you! Andy also tells me that some of you have contributed in other ways. All of this gives me a real shot in the arm to hear and I’m really touched. 

Tomorrow is the last day and if any of you want to support the ride (and the festival), any donation, even five quid, is appreciated. It is great lots of people involved.  

I was looking forward to rolling out of Barnstaple this morning with 15 miles of flat coastal trail instead of what’s been the more usual rude awakening/thigh-busting climb. I had a tailwind and soon settled into a nice rhythm. 

I was on the famous Tarka Trail. Curious, last night I looked up “who was Tarka?” thinking it would be some explorer or MP. Imagine my surprise to discover Tarka was an otter in a beloved children’s book by Henry Williamson. I’m sure you all know this but it was news to me. 

On the Tarka Trail, I passed the Beam Aqueduct where, in the novel, Tarka was both born and saw his last day. When they made the movie, in a poignant coincidence, apparently Williamson died the same day they filmed the death scene. 

The Beam Aqueduct

There were a few tunnels along the trail where I was grateful I had a front light. They weren’t usually long but boy they were dark and suddently 10 degrees colder and very humid. With just a small cone of light  in front for illumination, riding in the dark feels like you are flying. 

Lasciate ogni speranza voi ch’entrate

I’m still feeling strong and seemed to have an extra gear today. People ask if I hear music when riding but usually I’m concentrating so intensely that any thinking is more a kind of subconscious processing. It isn’t unusual to figure something out after hours of riding without specifically thinking about it. 

Maybe there was less pollen in the air but my nose felt unusually alive today. There was the tangy pungency of manure while passing farms, or the rich organic smell of fresh-tilled earth. At one point I found myself in a forest surrounded by the intoxicating aroma of pine and pulled over, filling my lungs. 

I took a break today in Okehampton and treated myself to a pastry. Later, in Lydford, I came across this hulk of a castle and walked into the accompanying St. Petroc’s Church. 

You probably all take this stuff for granted, but as an American, it still amazes me to think of walking regularly amongst buildings over a thousand years old. 

I didn’t think anytyhing could top the castle in Lydford but then I came across St. Michael de Rupe perched like some sentinel on a cliff a few miles outside of Tavistock. 

What a trip this has been! I’ve spent countless hours on tiny farm roads, gravel paths along canals, rocky single track in thick forest, and a few terrifying miles on highways. I’ve been on bike paths that roll for miles along rivers, and cycled along cliffs that look out over the sea. Tomorrow I finally head up to Dartmoor which, to me, feels like the heart of Devon. I expect to roll up to the Arts Center between 12:00 and 12:30ish. Maybe I’ll see you there? 

Tomorrow – Tavistock to Ashburton

David Yang, Artistic Director, Ashburton Chamber Music Festival

If you would like to support my ride and the Ashburton Chamber Music Festival, no donation is too small. 


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